As Caborcas 2020 Ladeiras do Biei, Valdeorras, Spain
As Caborcas means 'vineyard by the little river' and this prized plot sits just above the Bibei river, outside the town of Santa Cruz. Having long been recognised by the older generation of local growers as being a special site, the team of Telmo Rodriguez started bottling this single vineyard wine in 2010. It's a field blend of organic Mencía, Merenzao, Sousón, Brancellao, Godello and more, from a complete mixture of altitudes and aspects. There's minimum intervention with wild yeast fermentation in small oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. Followed by up to 15 months in large foudres. As Caborcas tends to be intensely aromatic with silky, smooth tannins, it's complex, elegant yet powerful.
"The expressive, floral and aromatic 2020 As Caborcas was cropped from a warmer year but without the frost or mildew of past years like 2017 and 2018. 2020 was a year when they achieved a wine with good structure and a little more alcohol (14%) that was not really noticeable, as the wine comes through as balanced and elegant, textured and juicy, with fine tannins but not lacking clout." 2,664 bottles were produced. Robert Parker 96/100
"The nose is amazing. Sweet licorice with sweet sloe. A high intensity play of sweetness and acidity. Almost black forest raspberry underneath. Something like a highly ripe Cabernet Franc on the nose. Light strawberry comes behind it and garrigue spice, but all remains sweet. Sweet black cherry and a bit of amarena. The wine is not fat at all, it is infinitely fine on the nose. But highly aromatic, sweet, dense and rich. This charming fruit brings tears of joy to your eyes. What a brilliant composition! In the mouth, sweet black cherry with some charcoal. Underpinned with licorice, concentrated, almost blackish raspberry. Wonderful acidity and freshness, an acidity of red currant but more still of sweet cassis. The phenomenal thing about this wine is the play of sweetness and acidity. The oscillograph is enormous and at the same time it has this infinite charm from the high ripeness of the vintage. Highly ripe, high acidity and at the same time remaining lean and delicate. So brutally intense in the mouth! Concentrated finesse... Nothing heavy, but just standing for minutes with a brilliant charm factor - with a salty touch from the granite soils. A treat of the very highest order!" Heiner Lobenberg 97-100/100
To many, Telmo Rodriguez, who, along with his sister Amaia, runs the impressive Remelluri winery in Rioja, needs no introduction but it's his partnership with fellow winemaker, Pablo Egnziza that has created the exciting range of wines that come together under the umbrella of Telmo Rodriguez Wines. The two have have spent the past thirty years reclaiming abandoned vineyards of indigenous grapes, across a number of regions. Together they are working with over 350 separate small plots, totalling 80 hectares and 43 different varieties of native grapes.