Susana Esteban 'Procura' Tinto, Serra de São Mamde, Vinho Regional Alentejano 2017
Traditional varieties from São Mamede
One of the hallmarks of Susana's wines are that the grapes are old vine, indigenous and in most cases field blends. Field blends are usually found in once forgotten vineyards where native verities have naturally flourished but their true identity has been lost in time. Where the wine maker has the courage to work with what mother nature has provided them the identity of each vine isn't always the first priority. The Procura (which translates as search or quest) is a perfect example of what can be achieved with what nature has gifted you.
Serra de São Mamede is in the mountains of Portalalegre in the coolest subregion of Alentejo/Alentejano. It's surrounded by the forests of a national park and 700 meters above the plains of Alentejo, as a result Susana's style of wines are 'not' typical of Alentejo, they're fresher by design, more complex and with an elegance that surprises.
Pairs well with steak, veal and charcuterie.
"Two vineyards, one is the same as for the Procura white – the field blend includes both red and white grapes and winegrowers used to blend them all together. The other is 40-year-old Alicante Bouschet, also from the Serra de São Mamede but not part of a field blend. Spends two winters in barrel, none new.
Very dark in colour and dark-fruited – blackcurrant not cassis – and smells both elegant and stony. A suggestion of pencils but not the combination of leafy and lead pencil you often get with Cabernet Franc. This is riper. The tannins are so incredibly refined, so silky, dry and super-fresh. Fine-boned and beautiful. Long. The oak is extremely subtle. Opens up to a the scent of wild scrubland.
- Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding MW
- Procura 2017Drink 2023-2032 18/20 Tasted June 2023