For a long time we've enjoy the high altitude wines of ArPePe in Valtellina for their incredible elegance and beguiling style, so it makes complete sense that we'd fall in love with their neighbors, Le Piane in Alto Piemonte's Boca DOC, owned by Christoph Knuzli.
Boca is Piedmont's highest (400-450mtrs above sea level) and most easterly wine-growing region and once considered the most progressive wine-growing region in Italy and the historic home of Nebbiolo.
Introduced to the region by Paulo de Marchi of Isole e Olena (who's family home is Proprieta Sperino in neighboring Lessona), Christoph took over Le Piane in 1998. By reviving Le Piane, and it's 80-100 year old vines, (which were planted according to the 'Maggiorina' system whereby four vines are clustered together to form what looks like a square) Christoph has also helped revive a wine producing region that had fallen into steep decline. He has created wines that are true to their origin and are already at cult status. The vines are planted on ancient volcanic soils which, along with the cool climate and elevation, helps create wines that are both elegant and rich. The vineyard is essentially biodynamic.
The 2018 Boca, predominantly Nebbiolo (85%) with the balance being Vespolina, is drinking now and for the next 20 years.
“Christoph Künzli is one of the architects of the Renaissance of Alto Piemonte. Over the last 25 years, Künzli has built one of the most highly regarded wineries in all of Italy…Le Piane represents the best of the artisan tradition in Alto Piemonte. These are reference-point wines....
The 2018 Boca is a deep, powerful wine. Sweet tobacco, new leather, cedar, spice and dried dark fruits abound. This is an especially savory, earthy vintage for the Boca. I would have never guessed this is from the 2018 vintage—it’s still youthfully austere and needs time.”
94+ Antonio Galloni, Vinous (Nov 2023)
"I could spend all day just taking in the beautiful aromas that include graphite, dog rose, botanical herb, small red berry and a smoky note. A blend of 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Vespolina, the palate is already surprisingly rather accessible, offering ripe Morello cherry, blood orange, licorice and flinty mineral accompanied by fine-grained, enveloping tannins." 94 Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com (Aug 2023)
"Light bricky red. Sweetly complex with both red fruits and crushed leaves. Chalky tannins, finely textured, almost powdery. Light-bodied and long. Pure, fresh, elegant."
17.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jul 2024)
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